Anacortes Siding Siding Built for Where March Point Sits
March Point occupies a narrow peninsula between Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, just outside Anacortes in Skagit County. Homes out here catch weather from more directions than most inland properties do — wind off the water, salt-laden air, and rain that comes in sideways during a fall or winter storm. That combination is harder on exterior siding than people expect, and it's the reason a "good enough" installation somewhere else can fail early here.
We've installed and repaired siding on homes throughout the Anacortes area long enough to know that March Point's exposure isn't uniform — a house tucked behind trees on the leeward side takes less punishment than one facing open water — but nearly every property out here deals with some mix of salt air, driving rain, and a moss season that can run half the year. Siding installation here needs to account for all three, not just look right on installation day.
What Salt Air, Driving Rain, and Moss Season Actually Do to Siding
Salt Air
Airborne salt from the surrounding bays settles on exterior surfaces and accelerates corrosion of fasteners, trim, and any exposed metal flashing. It also breaks down cheap paint finishes faster than inland weathering does, leaving chalky, faded siding years before it should need attention.
Driving Rain
Wind-driven rain doesn't just fall on siding — it gets pushed sideways and upward into laps, seams, and butt joints that were only designed to shed water moving straight down. Poorly lapped or under-flashed siding on a wind-exposed wall lets moisture behind the cladding, where it can sit against sheathing and framing.
Moss Season
Skagit County's long wet season keeps north- and shade-facing walls damp for months at a time. Moss and algae take hold on any siding material that holds surface moisture, and on products with paper facings or absorbent cores, that sustained dampness is what eventually causes swelling, delamination, or rot underneath.
Why We Only Install James Hardie Fiber Cement Here
We standardized on James Hardie fiber cement siding for every home we side, including in March Point, because it's built to handle exactly this kind of exposure. Fiber cement doesn't absorb water the way wood-based or wood-fiber siding does, so it doesn't swell, delaminate, or feed the moss and algae growth that thrives in a shaded, damp climate. It's also non-combustible, which matters to a lot of homeowners regardless of coastal exposure.
James Hardie's ColorPlus factory finish is baked on and backed by a color warranty, so it holds up to salt air and UV exposure far better than field-applied paint on primed wood products. And Hardie's HZ5 product line specifically accounts for higher-moisture, harsher climates like the Pacific Northwest coast — the engineering assumes wetter, windier conditions rather than treating them as an edge case.
We don't install vinyl, LP SmartSide, Cemplank, Allura, primed spruce, or cedar. Each of those products has legitimate strengths, but none of them combine moisture performance, fire resistance, and finish durability the way Hardie does in a marine-influenced climate, and we'd rather stand behind one system we trust completely than offer options we'd have reservations recommending for a house on the water.
What a Correct Installation Involves
Fiber cement siding performs the way it's supposed to only when it's installed to manufacturer spec — and in a high-exposure location like March Point, the details matter more than usual.
- Water-resistive barrier: A continuous weather barrier behind the siding, properly lapped shingle-style so water always drains outward and down.
- Flashing at every penetration: Windows, doors, hose bibs, vents, and any other wall penetration get flashed so wind-driven rain can't track behind the siding at those points.
- Correct fastener placement and type: Corrosion-resistant fasteners driven at the manufacturer-specified location on each plank — not just "close enough" — so the board holds tight without splitting or working loose over time.
- Proper clearances: Gaps at grade, roofing, and decking so the bottom edge of the siding never sits in standing water or constant splash-back.
- Caulking and sealant at the right joints only: Hardie's lap and joint details are designed to shed water without being fully sealed everywhere — over-caulking can trap moisture instead of releasing it.
- Factory-cut edges primed and sealed: Any field cut exposes raw fiber cement, which needs to be sealed before it's closed in.
Skip any one of these and you can end up with siding that looks fine for a season or two before problems show up behind it — usually right around the areas most exposed to wind and rain.
Comparing Siding Options for a Peninsula Property
Homeowners considering a re-side often ask why we don't offer the full range of common products. Here's a straightforward look at how the main options hold up against the specific conditions March Point homes face.
| Material | Moisture / Salt Air Behavior | Moss & Algae Resistance | Finish Durability |
|---|---|---|---|
| James Hardie Fiber Cement (HZ5) | Does not absorb water or swell; engineered for wetter climates | Non-organic surface resists sustained growth better than wood-based products | Factory ColorPlus finish, backed by warranty |
| Vinyl | Doesn't absorb water but expands/contracts with temperature and can warp or loosen in high wind | Can still host surface growth in shaded, damp areas | Color is baked into the material but fades and becomes brittle over time |
| LP SmartSide (wood-strand) | Engineered wood core; performance depends heavily on maintaining the factory coating and sealed edges | Vulnerable if moisture reaches the wood-strand core | Field-applied or factory finish, needs upkeep at joints and cuts |
| Cedar | Natural material; absorbs and releases moisture, requires ongoing sealing/staining | Prone to moss and mildew without regular treatment | Needs re-staining or re-sealing on a recurring cycle |
This isn't a knock on every other product on the market — it's why, for a climate like this one, we've chosen to put our name behind a single system rather than sell whatever a homeowner asks for.
Our Process, Start to Finish
We keep the process the same on every March Point job because consistency is what keeps quality from slipping between houses.
- On-site assessment: We walk the exterior, check the current siding and sheathing condition, and note wind exposure on each elevation — a wall facing open water gets treated differently than a sheltered one.
- Written estimate: Scope, product line, color, and price, with no vague allowances.
- Tear-off and sheathing check: We remove the old siding and inspect sheathing for hidden moisture damage before anything new goes up — this is often where problems from a prior installation surface.
- Weather barrier and flashing: Installed and inspected before a single piece of Hardie goes on the wall.
- Siding installation to manufacturer spec: Fastener pattern, clearances, and joint treatment done the same way on every job, regardless of how visible that section of wall is.
- Final walkthrough: We go over the finished job with the homeowner and point out anything they should keep an eye on going forward.
Living With Hardie Siding in This Climate
One advantage of fiber cement in a place like March Point is how little ongoing attention it needs compared to wood-based alternatives. It won't need re-staining or re-sealing. Surface dirt, salt residue, and light moss on shaded sections typically wash off with a garden hose and soft brush — pressure washing isn't necessary and can force water into joints if used carelessly. Keeping gutters clear and vegetation trimmed back from walls goes further toward long-term siding performance here than any product choice alone, since it limits how much standing moisture ever reaches the wall in the first place.
Questions Worth Asking Before You Hire a Siding Contractor
Coastal and peninsula properties are less forgiving of shortcuts than inland homes, so it's worth being direct with any contractor you're considering.
- Do they install to James Hardie's published fastening and clearance specifications, or just "close enough"?
- Will they inspect and address sheathing condition before re-siding, not just cover over it?
- Do they flash every window, door, and penetration individually, or rely on caulk to do that job?
- Can they explain how they'll treat a wind-exposed elevation differently from a sheltered one?
- Is the warranty backed by the manufacturer, the installer, or both — and what does it actually cover?
A contractor who's worked this specific stretch of Skagit County waterfront should be able to answer all of these without hesitation, because they've already run into the failure modes that come from skipping them.
Why Local Experience on March Point Homes Matters
Every peninsula and shoreline area has its own microclimate quirks — which elevations take the worst of the wind, how fast moss establishes on the shaded side of a roofline, how far salt spray actually reaches inland. A crew that's already worked houses in this specific area isn't guessing at those details; they're applying what they've seen hold up and what hasn't. That local track record, paired with a single fiber cement system installed correctly, is what keeps a re-side from becoming a repeat project five or seven years down the road.
If you're weighing a siding replacement or new installation on a March Point home, we're happy to take a look and walk you through what your specific exposure calls for. Reach out for a free, no-pressure estimate — the form below gets you started.